The Melting Pot of Malaysia

Having taken three mini buses, two ferries and a tuk-tuk, we arrived in Georgetown, Malaysia, the seventh country on our tour.  Sat in the north east corner of the small island of Penang, a short ferry or a long bridge from the mainland, this is where the British first landed, back in the 1700's, bringing with them the East India Company and starting the gradual colonisation of the country as a whole.  Being listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we expected to find a sleepy little town with picturesque streets, quaint cafes & bars and plenty of historical landmarks...which we did.  What we had not expected was the modern, booming cosmopolitan city surrounding it.  The roads encircling the old town have, literally, traditional two-storey Chinese style shop fronts and historic mansions on one side, and giant modern malls and skyscrapers on the other.  Now we see why this is regarded as Malaysia's second city.

Love Lane

Heading on foot into the warren of streets and alleyways of the actual UNESCO site is a journey into the history of this unique town.  Roads, with names like Argyll, King, Queen, Buckingham, even Downing Street, lead you past rows of street food hawkers, with their shiny 'kitchen on wheels' carts, steaming with aromas of Chinese, Indian and, of course, Malay fare.  On the now famous plastic tables and chairs, set out on unused scraps of pavement, in front of closed or vacant office and shop buildings, one can sample delicious dishes from all over Asia; cuisines brought here many generations ago by the migrants who flocked to the newly established trading port, whose ancestors now make up the mixed blend of cultures who call this home.  Skewers strung with tender morsels of tandoori chicken, fiery bowls of fish soup, sizzling woks of noodles laced with blushed pink prawns, and flame grilled meats dipped in sticky satay sauce - there is so much on offer and with most dishes costing less than £2, it's no wonder that this place has become something of a foodie paradise   Many street food joints have become so established that they now stretch back into simple restaurant dining rooms, comprising of little more than a handful of chipped Formica tables and chairs beneath a halo of tube lighting and tiled walls - this is where we have found ourselves on most evenings, with a platter of meat and rice along with ice cold fresh fruit juices to cool us down.

Naan bread stuffed with shredded chicken, topped with cheese and served with a variety of curries

De Tai Tong Cafe - One of the best Dim Sum shops in town

So today, our last day before we head inland to the tea plantations of the Cameron Highlands, we took the elevator to the top of the tallest building on the island to take in the view - the 232m high KOMTAR tower.  Having taken far too many photographs from the deserted viewing centre on the 60th floor, we met some very friendly contractors who were working on the building's sprinkler system.  Now, the Malays, we have discovered, are extremely friendly, and these chaps kindly offered to take us to the roof.  'Better view,' one said, a tube of plans and schematics tucked under his arm.

'Must be quick,' chipped in the other, looking slightly nervous at his colleague's proposition.  'Must be quiet!'  Excited by the prospect of a windowless view of the city (which was pretty spectacular already) we quickly followed them, slipping past the "Authorised Personnel Only" sign, into the service elevator to climb a further three floors, out into the warm noon sunshine and up a wind swept steel mesh stair-case to the heli-pad on the very top of the building, 64 storeys up.  Wow!  We hastily snapped a few shots before the crackle of a security guard's radio echoed up from the corridors below, causing our chaperones to hastily usher us back down the stairs.  Stepping back into their roles as fire officers, they unrolled their blueprints and said goodbye to us at the service elevator entrance.  'If anyone see you coming out, just say you looking for toilet!' they called as the doors rattled closed.

Before I end, I realise I must summarise our time in Thailand:

Likes: The scenery.  It's not hard to see why Thailand has become famous for its tropical paradise beaches.  Crystal clear sea, sparkling sand and tall limestone stacks protruding from the water - we often felt as if we were in a postcard.

Dislikes:  Unfortunately, its beauty, its weather, its food and its people have contributed to it all feeling rather exhausted.  The shear number of tourists visiting the country, inspired no doubt by those very picture postcard snapshots, has added a rather unsavoury element to the place.  Numerous scams and cons mean one must always be on guard, unable to fully trust or warm to the locals.  Many restaurants have clearly latched on to the infinite chain of foreigners seeking their famous cuisine, and so choose to cut corners on ingredients, service and standards, or simply fill their menus with literally hundreds of dishes so as to cater to the widest audience - it was hard, therefore, to get a feel for the real Thailand.  In short, then, it just felt as if it had become too popular as a destination.  Indeed, we heard many tales of those who had visited Koh Phi Phi - world renowned for its natural beauty and stunning beaches.  'Avoid it,' many said.  'It has been ruined.'

Favourite Beer:  Leo.  Chang is the ubiquitous brew, plastering its brand across billboards, t-shirts and umbrellas, but Leo is far more palatable.

Favourite Meal:  Christmas day!  Barbecued chicken (marinated in our own blend of chili, lime, shallot, coriander and star anise), Rosie's perfect 'roast' potatoes (actually smothered in beef stock and fried) and some simple veg.  Special mention must be given to Rosie's sticky barbecued chicken marinade which we cooked on boxing day - divine!

Favourite Day:  Christmas day!  I've never had such a relaxing and enjoyable 25 December in all my life.  Presents, beach, barbecue, a movie and a long video call to our parents - all drizzled in plenty of red wine. And to have spent it somewhere as beautiful as Koh Yao Noi, in one of the most amazing houses I've ever stepped inside, let alone lived in, it was truly magical.