To The Border!

After a three hour coach journey, a back-breaking three hour queue (with rucksacks) to cross the border into Thailand, and four hours on the front seat of a mini-van, we are now resting in Bangkok for just one day before taking a long train north to cross over to Laos. 

Thailand is a different world compared to Cambodia and I was struck by how a simple line in the sand can cause such change.  Bumpy pot-holed strips of tarmac have become smooth, multi-laned freeways;tin shacks at the side of the road have turned to stone and brick; and the make-shift tables in front of them, selling coke bottles of petrol beside a basket of bananas, have become immense Shell forecourts with Seven-Elevens and car washes attached.  Even the scooter population has plummeted, and shiny new Chevrolet's, Toyota's and BMW's have taken their place.  Driving along on the left-hand side of the road, we could have (almost) been back at home!

So, Cambodia - a flying visit but a memorable one.

Synopsis:

Likes - The people.  So warm and friendly and with a great sense of humour.  One guy, selling silk table cloths, says to us, 'Hey sir lady, you buy table cloth?'

'No, sorry, we don't have a table.' (we really don't!)

'Okay, you buy table cloth, I give you free table.'

Despite the clear widespread poverty, everyone (give or take the odd grumpus here and there) is just so happy and smiley - a truly beautiful nation a million miles from the staring and scowling of China!

Dislikes: The sales patter!  As mentioned above, most of the market stall holders (and some shop keepers), have picked up the phrase 'Hello sir/lady, you buy something'.  Now, I don't know if this is a question or a demand, but as we wandered through markets, you would have this phrase called to you from every direction, at the same time, from everyone.  It got quite frustrating if you simply wanted to window-shop - even more so when you notice that what they are all selling is pretty much the same stuff!  The same touristy 'I love Cambodia' T-shirts, silk scarves, hammocks, wallets made of rice bags and stone sculptures.  But again, it wasn't that bad.  A simple 'no thank you' and a smile was accepted with a smile and a nod of the head and we'd carry on.  Again, lovely people simply trying to earn a living.

Favourite beer: Angkor.  There were only really three on offer.  Angkor, Anchor (which you have to request as 'An chore' to ensure you don't get 'Ang kor') and 'Cambodia'.  Angkor was the most widely available and cheapest.  Often drunk with enormous chunks of ice owing to a lack of refrigerators, it hit the spot after a long day of temple hunting.

Favourite meal:  I'm sorry Cambodia, but it has to be Freebird Bar and Grill in Phnom Penh (serving traditional American fayre).  Run by an American, (Dunk) an ex-bomb disposal worker, it really is the model business.  The friendliest, most genuine staff we've ever met, anywhere, (who clearly love their jobs and are very well looked after by the boss - he even takes them and their families on holiday!), the most efficient service we've experienced on our trip so far, and the best American food we've ever eaten - both inside and outside of The States.  We went twice; the first time I hit the chili dog and fries (served with real baked beans and real cheese) and the second time, well, I went big and did the double chili dog and fries - it was that good.  Rosie had a sloppy joe and on the second visit, Dunk's Grandmother's meatloaf - both delicious.  And, both our meals were all served at the same time - a rarity in this part of the world where food often arrives as and when the chef gets round to cooking it.

Favourite day:  Can I choose three?  The two days exploring Angkor on push-bikes were perfect.  I've said a number of times on this trip - "You know you've had a good day when you have to have a double shower at the end of it" (ie. soap, rinse, soap rinse).  This was true of Angkor.  Sunscreen, mosquito repellent, sweat, dust, blood and muck, all caked and baked onto our skin with some of the most stunning sights I've ever seen as the reward.  Finally, watching the sunrise over Angkor Wat was a memory that won't fade for a while, and come to think of it, may have been the first time I've ever watched the sunrise - I thoroughly recommend it.

Next stop, Vientiane, Laos...